Ossobuco con Gremolata

Remove 4 veal ossobuco (shin cross-cuts, about 3cm thick each) from the fridge 30 minutes before cooking. Pat them completely dry with kitchen paper. Season generously on both sides with fine salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Lightly dust each piece of veal in plain flour, shaking off the excess. This creates a thin crust that helps browning and thickens the braising liquid. Do not skip this step.

Heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil and 20g of butter in a heavy casserole or Dutch oven over high heat. When the butter foams, add the veal shanks. Sear for 3-4 minutes per side until deeply golden brown. Work in batches if needed — crowding prevents browning. Remove and set aside.

Reduce heat to medium. In the same pan, add 1 finely diced onion, 1 diced carrot, and 1 diced celery stick. Cook for 8-10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until softened and lightly golden. Scrape up any browned bits from the meat.

Pour in 250ml of dry white wine. Increase heat and let it bubble vigorously for 2-3 minutes, scraping the bottom of the pan to dissolve all the caramelised flavour. Reduce by half.

Add 400g of chopped tinned tomatoes and 400ml of beef or veal stock. Stir to combine. Add 2 bay leaves, 3 sprigs of thyme, and a strip of lemon zest. Bring to a gentle simmer.

Nestle the browned veal shanks back into the liquid. The liquid should come about two-thirds up the sides of the meat. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and transfer to a 160°C oven.

Braise for 2 to 2.5 hours, turning the shanks once halfway through. The meat is ready when it is falling-off-the-bone tender and a fork slides through with no resistance. The marrow in the centre should be soft and yielding.

While the veal braises, finely chop a large bunch of flat-leaf parsley. Finely grate the zest of 2 unwaxed lemons. Mince 2 garlic cloves very finely. Combine everything in a small bowl. This bright, aromatic garnish is what makes ossobuco sing.

Remove the veal shanks to a warm plate and tent with foil. If the braising liquid is thin, place the casserole on the hob and simmer uncovered for 5-10 minutes until it coats the back of a spoon. Taste and adjust seasoning.

Place each veal shank in a warm, shallow bowl. Spoon the sauce generously around and over the meat. Scatter a generous amount of gremolata on top. Serve with risotto alla Milanese for the classic pairing, or with creamy polenta. Provide small spoons for the marrow — it is the best part. Pair with a mature Barolo or Barbaresco.