Risotto alla Milanese

Place a generous pinch of saffron threads (about 0.15g) in a small bowl with 3 tablespoons of warm stock. Let it steep for at least 10 minutes. The longer it sits, the deeper the colour and flavour.

Bring 1.2 litres of good-quality beef or chicken stock to a gentle simmer in a separate pan. Keep it warm throughout the cooking process. Cold stock shocks the rice and disrupts the creamy texture.

Finely dice one medium white onion. Melt 30g of butter in a heavy-bottomed pan over low heat. Add the onion with a pinch of salt and cook gently for 8-10 minutes until completely soft and translucent. No colour.

Add 320g of Carnaroli rice to the onion. Stir for 2 minutes over medium heat until the grains are hot and coated in butter, with a slightly translucent edge. You should hear a gentle crackling sound.

Pour in 150ml of dry white wine. Stir continuously until the wine has been completely absorbed. The alcohol will cook off, leaving behind acidity and depth.

Add a ladleful of warm stock to the rice. Stir gently and continuously until the stock is almost fully absorbed before adding the next ladle. This gradual process coaxes starch from the rice, creating the signature creaminess.

After about 10 minutes of cooking, pour in the steeped saffron and its liquid. Stir through evenly. The risotto will turn a magnificent golden yellow.

After 15-18 minutes total cooking, taste a grain. It should be tender but with a barely perceptible bite at the centre. The risotto should flow like lava when you tilt the pan - neither stiff nor soupy.

Remove the pan from the heat. Add 50g of cold butter cut into cubes and 80g of finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (aged 24 months minimum). Beat vigorously with a wooden spoon for 30 seconds until the risotto becomes glossy and waves when you shake the pan.

Cover the pan and let it rest for 2 minutes. This allows the starches to settle and the flavours to marry. Patience here makes the difference.

Spoon onto warm, flat plates. Tap the plate gently so the risotto spreads into a thin, even layer - it should flow naturally. Finish with a thread of good olive oil and a few extra saffron threads if you like. Serve with a glass of Franciacorta or a dry Lugana.