Spaghetti Aglio, Olio e Peperoncino

Use at least 4 litres of water. Add a generous amount of coarse salt once boiling - it should taste like the sea. This is the only chance to season the pasta itself.

Use 4 large cloves for 400g of spaghetti. Slice them thinly and evenly so they cook at the same rate. Do not use a garlic press - sliced garlic gives a gentler, sweeter flavour.

Slice 2 dried peperoncini lengthways and shake out the seeds if you prefer less heat. You can also use 1 teaspoon of chilli flakes. The heat should warm, not burn.

Pour 80ml of your best extra virgin olive oil into a large, cold pan. Place over low-medium heat. The oil should shimmer but never smoke. Quality matters here - the oil is a main ingredient, not just a cooking medium.

Add the sliced garlic to the warm oil. Cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until the edges turn the lightest shade of gold. This takes patience. If the garlic browns, it turns bitter - start again.

Add the chilli to the golden garlic, stir for 10 seconds to release its oils, then immediately take the pan off the heat. Residual heat will continue cooking everything gently.

Drop the spaghetti into the boiling water. Cook for 1 minute less than the packet says. It will finish cooking in the pan with the sauce. Stir in the first minute to prevent sticking.

Before you drain, ladle out a full mug (about 250ml) of the starchy cooking water. This cloudy liquid is the secret to a silky sauce - the starch emulsifies with the oil.

Return the garlic-chilli pan to medium heat. Add the drained spaghetti and a good splash of pasta water (about 80ml). Toss vigorously with tongs, adding more water if needed, until the oil and water create a creamy, glossy coating.

Finely chop a generous handful of flat-leaf parsley - both leaves and tender stems. The stems have more flavour than you think.

Remove from heat. Add the parsley and toss through. Taste and adjust salt. A final drizzle of raw olive oil adds freshness. No cheese on this one - it would mask the garlic and chilli.

Divide between warm bowls. Eat straight away - this pasta waits for no one. Pair with a crisp Vermentino or a cold Peroni.